I'm assuming that this many years of not being used the oil is all gunked up. I lifted the presser foot to look at them and they don't do anything. I got the thing threaded and it seems to be working just fine motor-wise, but the feed dogs won't engage and move the fabric through.
SINGER SERGER QUANTUMLOCK 4 HOW TO
I pulled it out tonight hoping to watch some YouTube videos and figure out how to use it. It was used when I received it but had been serviced by my local sewing machine store. It was a gift all those years ago and I never really learned how to use it. I have a BabyLock SE200 that has been sitting in my closet for a (shameful) number of years. This poor serger! Its owner should be reported to the sewing machine abuse council! To prevent this from happening to your serger, just get it out and use it every month. Then we have to remove the old oil with a "solvent," remove the solvent and whatever it disolved, then re-oil. So, if you can't turn the handwheel, that usually means you have a gummy mess inside. When sergers sit unused for a long time, the old oil will turn into a gummy mess. If you have a Bernina or Bernette serger, this is a simple thing you can do yourself! Here, I've loosened the black screw, and moved the arm so it's even with the looper arm behind it, then re-tightened the screw. In this picture, the thread puller is knocked out of position. This is a Bernette, but is the same on most Berninas. And no matter how much you mess with the tensions, you won't get a good stitch. Sometimes the thread pullers get knocked out of whack. Some sewing machine mechanics are willing to replace these pins, others will just have you buy a whole new needle plate. The pin on the right is broken off, and will also have to be replaced. The pin on the left is too bent, and will have to be replaced. Sometimes you can bend the bent pin back in place. There are 2 pins in the needle plate that hold the fabric stable as the stitch is formed. Here's a common problem we see with sergers. I'd like to show you a few things about serger repair. If it doesn't feed well, where the threads are supposed to lock on the edge, will wave. Important for the thread to feed well off of the spools. Rack, the nicer the thread feeds off of the spool. Thread rack may seem like a little thing, but the taller the thread You'd need a gathering foot to get deep gathers, though. To gather it up a bit, you can speed up the front feed dog, and it will Also, if you're sewing with a non-stretchy fabric, and you want Out and make a "lettuce leaf edge," you can make the front feed dog go slower. Stretchy fabric, and you don't want it to stretch out and be wavy, youĬan speed up that front feed dog. The front feed dogĬan be adjusted to go faster or slower. The back feed dog goes the same speed all the time. #2 Differential feed means that you have 2 feed dogs. On most machines, there's a switch in the front that's pushed forward for regular serging, and pulls back for a rolled hem.
You can finish table linens or anything else that youĭon't want to put a hem on. You can use it to finish the edge of a ruffle, instead of folding #1 The rolled hem is such a great way to finish a rawĮdge. Three features that you really want on a serger are 1) a built-in rolled hem, 2) differential feed, and 3) a tall thread rack. Will tell you it isn't worth the cost of having it repaired, because we Machine in for a repair, we don't have much to work with. If the metal is cheap, the screws strip, and the parts wear out The needle/looper distance (a timing setting), because it's variable. If it wiggles forward and backward, we can't set Sloppiness), by grabbing the needle bar and see if it will wiggleįorward and backward. Serger that's made in a "high tolerance" factory (where they allow Parts have to fit together tightly, without any "play." You can detect a
"Low tolerance," means they don't tolerate any When a machine is manufactured, the manufacturer sets a You know, if you buy a cheap serger from a box store, you